Traditions and Experiments
For such a dominating celebration, Christmas is something of a curiosity when it comes to food. Why does turkey persist when no-one seems to like it? Traditions have a tight grip. But not everyone feels so constrained — especially not those who can really cook. For chefs, Christmas tends to mean one of two things: either it’s a chance to experiment, to have a little fun, to try something new — or it’s a time to rest, to stop, to keep it simple. After all, when you make so much effort the rest of the year, isn’t 25 December the chance to not? Here, the capital’s very best chefs share the way they like to celebrate.
A Contemporary Twist on Ham
Tamarind and ginger glazed ham will take center stage at my family Christmas feast. Pork is probably my favorite meat to eat — it’s so full of flavor and so versatile. I have such fond memories of my mother and grandmother cooking and glazing hams at Christmas. My version gives it a contemporary feel, yet retains all of the homely nostalgia that feels so good at Christmas.
A Meat-Free Feast
This year we’re celebrating with two vegetarian families, so we’re embracing a meat-free Christmas feast. The centerpiece will be a whole roasted Delica squash stuffed with soya and chestnuts, and served with a bread curry — my take on the traditional bread sauce, with a slightly thinner consistency and a great blend of spices. It perfectly complements the roast pumpkin and adds a burst of flavor to the dish.
Simple Yet Delicious Apple Tart Tatin
My go-to dish around Christmas would have to be apple tart tatin. It’s one of the most simple, yet delicious, dishes with very few ingredients — just sugar, butter, apples, and pastry. It’s like alchemy — it’s the only time of year I generally eat it, and it can’t be beaten. Always with ice cream and crème fraîche.
A Traditional Italian Feast
I’ll be making bollito misto for Christmas dinner, as it is a traditional Italian dish served at this time of year. I love the different textures and flavors of carefully poached salt beef brisket, cappone, ox tongue, and my favorite sausage — cotechino. It is served with a few poached vegetables, lentils, potatoes, salsa rossa, and salsa verde. A delicious Christmas lunch that can make some of the best leftover sandwiches for the days ahead and also a lovely broth to make a soup.
A Stellar Showstopper
This Christmas, I’ll be cooking one of my signature dishes, the Lucknow-style turkey biryani. Turkey legs are much cheaper than a whole bird but still plentiful and delicious — moreover, a little goes a long way to make this stellar showstopper of a dish so you’re able to impress without spending a lot of money on ingredients and the whole day in the kitchen.
Pigs in Blankets with a Twist
For me, it has to be pigs in blankets, but not just any pigs in blankets. For Christmas day, I like to use wild boar spicy sausages wrapped in smoked streaky bacon. You can also use pigs in blankets as a canape; they’re great served with Oxford sauce.
A Classic Winter Warmer
I love a coq au vin around Christmas, it’s the perfect winter warmer served up with some buttery pomme purée. There’s always plenty of red wine kicking around this time of year and it’s a super simple stew to put together. Always boil your red wine before marinating the chicken and vegetables; the key is to get organized and marinate the chicken the night before.
Cold Punch and Cheesy Delights
I like to freeze my sorrel punch ahead of Christmas Day, it’s better enjoyed really cold — but be warned it creeps up on you as it’s laced with spices and rum! For the kids, I usually make mac and cheese balls which can be done ahead of time and stored in the freezer, and fried on the day. They love them.